A Transatlantic renewal

How many shades of green can be found on São Miguel Island is a subject of debate. Is it 100, or 1,000? What is not up for question is how much beauty and architectural heritage begs discovery on this verdant isle some 850 miles off Portugal. Clinging tenaciously to its hilly coast is Ponta Delgada, a city that has logged five centuries of history, surviving countless volcanic eruptions, with the landmarks to prove it. From the port, black-and-white cobbled Gonçalo Velho Square and elegant 18th-century city gates lead to a maze of streets lined with churches, convents, and whitewashed homes in Gothic, Baroque, and intricate Manueline styles. Yet, the island is equally celebrated, if not more, for its lush, untamed landscapes. A few steps away from Ponta Delgada, discover thermal springs, hydrangea-lined trails, and sweeping vistas where the sky meets the sea. 

Legend has it that in 1648, the French and the Dutch divided the island now known as Saint Martin and Sint Maarten, by scurrying off in opposite directions from a central point, claiming terrain as they walked. Spend a delightful day surveying the result as you explore Marigot, capital of the northern French half, brimming with colonial houses and bustling markets offering Creole charm and irresistible codfish fritters. Make your way up to the ruins of Fort Louis for majestic bay views and a peek at Anguilla out on the horizon. Further north, the tiny, traditional lolo restaurants of Grand Case dish out authentic fare and convivial spirit. While down on the Dutch side, casinos and duty-free bring a different kind of vibrancy to the island spirit, as do the white sands and lazy turquoise waves of Mullet Bay.